The Troodos massif takes up most of central Cyprus, peaking at Mount Olympus at 1952m. Pine forests, ten UNESCO frescoed churches scattered across mountain villages, and the only ski resort in the Middle East. Twenty degrees cooler than the coast in summer, so locals escape here from June to September.
The Troodos are where Cyprus goes to breathe. Climb out of the coastal heat and the air changes fast: pine resin, cool shade, the sound of running water somewhere below the road. In summer the mountains fill with Cypriot families picnicking under the trees; in winter Mount Olympus wears actual snow and the island suddenly has a ski season; in spring the waterfalls around Platres, Caledonia among them, are at their liveliest; in autumn the orchards and vineyards turn every shade of amber. Whichever month you come, this is a different island from the one at sea level.
The villages are the heart of it. Kakopetria with its preserved old quarter, Platres with its cool-air hotels and trout on the menu, and dozens of smaller places where the kafeneio is still the centre of life. Scattered among them are the painted Byzantine churches: small, steep-roofed and easy to drive straight past, yet holding some of the finest medieval frescoes in the eastern Mediterranean, with grand monasteries like Kykkos and Trooditissa on the high roads between. Mountain food deserves a trip of its own, all slow-cooked meats, fresh trout, preserved fruits and village wine, and our eat and drink guide explains the dishes to look out for.
Troodos suits walkers, drivers, families dodging the August heat, and anyone whose ideal afternoon is a long lunch with a valley view. The roads are good but winding, so build in time and let the day meander; getting mildly lost between villages is half the point. Feast days and village festivals punctuate the mountain year, so check the events calendar, and see the things to do guide for how a mountain day fits into a wider Cyprus trip.
Highest point on the island. Hike the Atalanti Trail around the summit, or ski it in January and February.
Cyprus's wealthiest and most famous monastery, holding an icon attributed to Saint Luke. Gilded everything.
Stone-built village in the cool foothills, with a river running through it. The painted church of Agios Nikolaos tis Stegis is next door.
Short, popular hike from Platres through pine forest to a 13m waterfall. Best after the spring melt.
Ten small Byzantine churches scattered through the mountains, all UNESCO listed for their frescoes. Asinou is the standout.
Hill station built by the British colonial elite to escape summer heat. Splash Waterfalls, old hotels, cool air.
Remote valley in the western Troodos full of native Cyprus cedars. Drive in, hike to a viewpoint, see the wild mouflon.
Less visited than Kykkos, more atmospheric. Founded in the 13th century, set high in the pines.
In the heart of Pano Platres, a husband-and-wife workshop making artisan chocolate by hand, with Commandaria and zivania-cream fillings. Tastings, shelves of handmade treats, and occasional hands-on chocolate-making sessions.
Several Troodos villages run traditional fragrance workshops where you extract botanical essences, learn old distillation methods and blend your own bottle to take home. A lovely hands-on afternoon among the lavender and herbs.
Riverside restaurant in the old mill village of Kakopetria, known for trout and hearty mountain cooking.
Famous Platres trout farm and restaurant, you can pretty much watch your fresh trout come straight from the water.
Cosy Platres taverna serving traditional Cypriot meze, grills and mountain specialities.
Village taverna in the wine village of Omodos, classic meze and local wine in a pretty cobbled setting.
See live listings of festivals, markets and events happening in the Troodos, refreshed daily on our events calendar.
The calendar runs five years ahead. Fixed and Easter-linked dates are exact; festivals with organiser-set dates show their usual month until confirmed. If a month is quiet, the next events coming up are listed instead.
We can put a personalised itinerary together, or just point you at the right tavernas. No pressure either way.
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Discover the breathtaking beauty of Troodos' lesser-known waterfalls.
ReadTwo waterfalls before lunch in the old hill resort of the Troodos.
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Twenty plus dishes, two hours, one table. How the meze works and how not to be beaten by course three.
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