Polis Chrysochous, usually just Polis, is a small market town on the north-west coast of Cyprus, sitting on the wide sweep of Chrysochou Bay where the Akamas peninsula meets the Paphos forest. It stands on the site of ancient Marion, one of the old city-kingdoms of Cyprus, and it has kept a genuinely local feel: a shaded central square ringed with tavernas, quiet backstreets, and long uncrowded beaches a short stroll from town.
This is the antidote to the big resorts. People come for the eucalyptus-shaded campsite by the sea, walks to the Baths of Aphrodite, turtle nesting beaches along the bay, hill villages full of wine, and slow evenings in the square. If your idea of Cyprus is unhurried and unspoilt, Polis is it.
The heart of Polis is its small pedestrianised square, shaded by trees and ringed with cafes and tavernas. Wander the stone backstreets to the church of Agios Andronikos, a 16th century building with surviving frescoes, and browse the little shops selling local honey, wine and carob products.
Polis sits on the site of ancient Marion, a city-kingdom that grew rich on copper before being destroyed and refounded as Arsinoe. The small local museum displays finds from the surrounding tombs and digs, pottery, figurines and gold, and tells the story of one of the oldest corners of Cyprus.
A short walk from the square, the town beach is a long stretch of sand and pebble backed by a famous eucalyptus grove, home to one of the best-loved campsites in Cyprus. Calm water, few crowds and a beach bar for the essentials. Simple, shady and very Polis.
Inland from Polis the hill villages, Droushia, Inia, Kathikas and Vouni Panayia further east, produce excellent local wine. Drive up for cellar-door tastings of Xynisteri and Maratheftiko, stone-built streets and huge views over Chrysochou Bay.
A ten minute drive west along the bay, a shaded natural pool and grotto where the goddess of love is said to have bathed, at the start of the Akamas nature trails. Easy walks lead off along the coast with sweeping sea views. Free to visit.
Polis is the eastern gateway to the Akamas, one of the last truly wild corners of Cyprus. Beyond the tarmac it is raw wilderness, gorges, hidden beaches and turtle nesting sands. Join a 4x4 safari, hike the Aphrodite trail or take a boat along the coast to the Blue Lagoon.
Five minutes west of town, this little fishing harbour is the local detour for a fresh fish supper by the water and the departure point for Blue Lagoon boat trips. A lovely spot for a sundown stroll along the quay.
A 7.5 km circular hike starting at the Baths of Aphrodite, climbing through juniper and pine to the ruins of the medieval Pyrgos tis Rigainas and huge coastal views over Chrysochou Bay. Go early, take water.
The long, quiet beaches running east from Polis toward Argaka and Pomos are nesting grounds for green and loggerhead turtles in summer, and Lara Bay on the far side of the Akamas is the most famous of all. Cages on the sand protect the nests; give them space and skip the beach umbrellas near marked areas.
A Polis institution, a warm family taverna in an old stone house famous for its generous fish meze and home cooking.
The tavernas and cafes around the pedestrian square are the social heart of town, good for meze, grills, coffee and people-watching under the trees.
Five minutes away at the fishing harbour, long-standing waterfront tavernas serve fresh catch and seafood meze with the boats bobbing in front of you.
Up in the hills, traditional tavernas do slow-cooked kleftiko, souvla and local wine with sweeping views over the bay.
See live listings of festivals, markets and events happening around Polis and the wider Paphos district, refreshed daily on our events calendar.
The calendar runs five years ahead. Fixed and Easter-linked dates are exact; festivals with organiser-set dates show their usual month until confirmed. If a month is quiet, the next events coming up are listed instead.
We can put a personalised itinerary together, or just point you at the right tavernas. No pressure either way.
Get in touchAphrodite's Baths, empty beaches and a square that still belongs to locals.
Read
Step back in history as you explore Cyprus' captivating ancient theatres.
Read
Embark on a delightful journey through Cyprus' finest artisan bakeries and savor the island's traditional sweet treats.
Read